Istanbul, a world unto itself. My mind is still unpacking from this journey in Türkiye. So much to explore in this megacity of millions of people, set on two continents, that I wanted to visit since a long time. These days had Turkish food and coffee, sights as Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque, Bosphorus cruise across the Asian side, culture and a Hamam experience.

My trip started with a subway journey and first contact with the traffic of Istanbul from the airport until the hotel in Gülhane, Fatih district. Was followed by a culinary tour in the first night in the streets of the Old Town in Karaköy, an introduction to the city and Turkish cuisine.

The weather was lovely, and near the water and Galata tower we tried the best local street food. We had Gözleme (stuffed flatbreads with cheese, spinach, potatoes or meat), Midye Dolma (mussels with rice) and Balik Ekmek or mackerel fish sandwich, grilled with herbs, which was my favorite. We were offered Turkish apple tea. Everywhere locals were very friendly.

Finally we stoped for sweet baklava, an authentic dessert. Rumor has it, was the best one in the city, at Karaköy Güllüoğlu, where we tried the baklava with different variations like pistachio or walnut and also with chocolate. The family Güllü is making baklava for many generations since 1843, and that evening at the restaurant we even saw by coincidence the owner, actually a local celebrity of Istanbul. Another recommended place to try was Hafiz Mustafa 1864.

Best of Istanbul

Next day started with a history lesson, underground at ancient Basilica Cistern museum, followed by the former Hippodrome of Constantinople. We toured inside well known Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque, a former church in Byzantine architecture, plus Blue Mosque (called Sultan Ahmed Mosque) with its 6 minarets, and in the end, small Hagia Sophia Mosque. Blue Mosque was spectacular and had a free entrance.

This was the first time I visited a Muslim country, and was more special than I imagined to be there and at Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque during the Holy month of Ramadan. At around 5 am I could hear from my hotel room the call to prayer, in addition to the five daily prayers. Looking back, waking up each morning in Istanbul with the solemn calling to prayer sound and ritual, I feel this was more than a cultural experience, it was a spiritual one.

Last but not least, after a typical Iskender kebab for lunch, last stop was the busy Grand Bazaar of Istanbul, one of the oldest markets in the world, in a maze of streets, all in the European part of the city.

Hamam experience

On Friday evening, I am glad I went to experience the traditional turkish bath ritual at recommended Cağaloğlu Hamam, together with a new friend. According to the website, is a historical building and it was “constructed in 1741 and is the last hamam to be built after a long period during the Ottoman Empire.”

A reservation is required at this hamam. We had booked “The İstanbul Dream”, that includes 15 minutes hot room rest (similar to sauna), followed by kese exfoliation / scrub and a foam massage, all in a separate section only for women, with marble white columns. It was peaceful, and later in the beautifully decorated relaxation area we were offered tea, home-made sherbet and Turkish delight, with music in the background. Is definitely one of a kind experience to try when in Istanbul.

Read more: Athens Travel report

After another delicious Turkish breakfast spread, Saturday started in the central Taksim Square and İstiklal Avenue or Independence Avenue pedestrian street, in Beyoğlu (Pera) district. Here we tried local coffee, which is ground coffee brewed by boiling traditionally in an ibrik. It was followed by an entertaining Turkish coffee fortune telling.

Later, at Ficcin restaurant we had a mezze lunch with fantastic Turkish flavors that included many shared dishes, such as hummus, artichoke salat with basil, sarma (stuffed vine leaves) or beet with yogurt and many more.

Crossing continents

From Beyoğlu I remember we walked past Orient Express hotel until the harbor to catch a ferry on the Bosphorus to take us to the Asian side of Istanbul in Kadıköy. The ferry trip of less than 30 minutes across Asian shore was one of my favorite parts of the trip. The Anatolian side Kadıköy was very busy, with many markets, bars and bookshops. Even briefly, being on a different continent made me look at everything with more wonder.

The return with the ferry to the European side was in Eminönü quarter, a perfect location to drink a coffee near the water, have a simit (bagel), or cross the Galata Bridge on foot, watching the sunset with fishermens, locals and travelers. From the bridge can be admired the imperial New mosque, located near the Golden Horn and the colorful covered Spice Bazaar, initially called Egyptian Bazaar.

To be able to see the Bosphorus, even from afar—for İstanbullus this is a matter of spiritual import that may explain why windows looking out onto the sea are like the mihrabs in mosques, the altars in Christian churches, and the tevans in synagogues, and why all the chairs, sofas, and dining tables in our Bosphorus-facing sitting rooms are arranged to face the view.

Orhan Pamuk, Istanbul: Memories and the City

To me travel is not a single thing – is multifaceted, a collection of a lot of things, a mix of culture, lessons, food, people, and historical sights, creating space for reflection.

In the last day in Istanbul, the journey ended with a bustling Bosphorus Strait cruise from Eminönü for stunning views and very good company from South Africa and Canada. It’s what a traveler needs. The cruise was an hour and 30 minutes, and one could see many landmarks such as Dolmabahçe Palace, Rumeli Fortress and Ortaköy Mosque, as well as the Asian shore and the Bosphorus Bridge. The cruise costs 250 turkish lira, which is around 6 euros.

Looking at the deep blue Bosphorus, I remember thinking how close the Black Sea, my hometown and childhood memories are, and in the same time how far away.

Embracing change, this enriching trip was also a lesson in the city’s history and architecture. Because just like Rome and Athens feel open air museums, to me Istanbul was as well a history lesson revisited – about the Greek, Byzantine, Ottoman and Constantinople times.

On the other hand, we cannot see everything on a 4 days trip to Istanbul. In this case, even though the days were packed, I still have on the list to see next time Topkapi, more of Sea of Marmara, climb the Gata Towers for the views and discover more quarters of the city. But 2025 was the year I finally visited Istanbul. Grateful for this journey. Teşekkürler Istanbul.

It’s your road, and yours alone.

Others may walk it with you, but no one can walk it for you.

Rumi

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