Valencia – city of runners, of palm trees, beautiful architecture, paellas and friendly locals. Near the Mediterranean. Like Valencians, I started discovering their city from the ancient narrow alleys of the old town to imposing boulevards, from the Gothic Cathedral and Art Nouveau Mercado Central until modern City of Arts & Sciences.
Returned home energized for the New Year ahead.
Over the past years I always had the idea in the back of my mind to plan a trip here. Even New York Times travel added Valencia to the travel list with 52 places to see in 2024, and called it “Contemporary art with a side of paella”, as the inspiration for the title of my story.
In the first evening there was a religious festivity or ceremony on the busy streets of the old town, with an atmosphere, music and sounds that moved me so deeply. Even though I don’t like to compare cities, the spirituality and rhythm of this place felt to me different than experienced in other parts of Spain, or even western cultures. I was outside Mercado Colón, thinking I will always associate Valencia with the emotion I felt that night.
City of Arts and Science
One of the favorite things I did was walk from the center through the Turia park among many runners until Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias, and later until the marina and one of local beaches. The cultural and architectural futuristic complex was designed by local famous Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava.
“City of Science and Arts” complex has bridges, the Valencia Towers and the following structures: L’Hemisfèric (planetarium), the first building completed in 1998, a science museum, an oceanographic park, an IMAX, Opera House Palau de les Arts Reina Sofía and the covered plaza L’Àgora. Breakfast at Dulce de Leche pasteleria in this part of Valencia and the walk in the complex was very special because I was reunited with Svenja, that I had not seen for 10 years.
Food mode. Mercado Central
I could write an entire story of the Mercado central, since I enjoy visiting and trying the food at the local markets, especially a covered one in a beautiful Valencian Art Nouveau building. The central market in the city is one of the largest one in Europe with fresh fish and other produce from the Mediterranean, and even paellas to take away. Because of course, Valencia is the birthplace of paella. Even though I like the one with seafood, I was told that autentic Valencian one has besides rice, only tomatoes, green bean, chicken, rabbit and artichoke.
In my last morning in València (officially in Valencian), on a Monday, I finally visited the central market, when is open until 3pm. From the huge market you can buy jamón and cheese, nuts and seeds. Try turrón, empanadas or the local drink “Horchata” made from chufa (tiger nuts), traditionally served with “fartons” – a long, sweet pastry.
Without any plan in mind, the first stop at the market was at the stand of a friendly women that prepared only tortillas, so I took a mini “Bocadillo de Tortilla with chorizo”, with creamy interior for my salty first breakfast. After buying some fruits for later, I continued to Horno Pasteteria San Antonio for coffee and something sweet as “pastelito de boniato”, a Christmas pastry with white sweet potato.
Lastly, during my flight to Valencia I watched the first episode of the Blue zones documentary of Netflix, so maybe I was under the influence of what I saw, communities living vibrant lives and eating extraordinarily food. I definitely associated that also with Valencia, while walking through beautiful colors of fruits and vegetables, almost tasting the Spanish flavor, smilingly being called “guapa” by sellers.
While walking through the stands of Mercado Central, vivid and favorite travel memories from other local markets flashed though my mind – Châtelain in Brussels before French classes, Cours Saleya Nice in the south of France, Munich Viktualienmarkt, Mercado de la Boqueria in Barcelona or gourmet Mercado de San Miguel for my first dinner in Madrid, one of a kind Naschmarkt in Vienna and lastly, Timeout Lisbon.
Travel Journal 
Valencia really is a special place! I remember visiting a few years ago and I would love to go back to its chilled vibe and delicious food!
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Indeed, Valencia seemed like traveling off the beaten path
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