Once upon a time, it was Italy’s best kept secret. A rainbow of houses in Ligurian Cinque terre, literally meaning five lands. These 5 Italian cliffside villages along the Mediterranean coast from north to south are Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore.
Dear reader, you will see I have made my research to design the journey and discover this UNESCO World Heritage, also a National Park. Most importantly, I enjoyed the process along the way and I will share also a few facts after each village story. This is literally a destination that was on my mind for years.
I don’t even remember when I first heard about this charming part of the Italian coastline and 5terre, if I read about it or someone told me, but I know it was definitely while I was living in Brussels. Vision becomes reality.
1. First stop – Riomaggiore
On the first day in Cinque Terre, the coastal exploration started in Riomaggiore. Made first a panoramic walk in a loop from the old town that surrounded Castello di Riomaggiore to admire the picturesque views of pastel houses and of the coast. Admittedly, I was not expecting to be so impressed immediately. Nature is incredible.
Was time to eat, and the delicious fried fish, including calamari and anchovies served in paper cones from Costevé on Via Colombo was an ideal snack for strolling or for a short break. Followed by coffee by the sea.
Many tourists only pass by briefly from a cruise or do a few stops in Cinque Terre as a day trip. But I wanted to savor my time and understand better the region, so stayed several days. While walking in Riomaggiore I realized that what drew me first to this destination was the fact that you could walk near the coastal paths and between the villages.
Interesting aspects to consider – In order to hike the famous Blue Path or Sentiero Azzuro between the villages, a Cinque Terre card must be bought. Best to buy it online. All profits go to the National Park, and not to mention is the most sustainable way to travel, and is helping also the local economy.
At the moment sadly only some sections of the trail between villages are open. The easiest and shortest section, Via dell’Amore or “path of love” between Riomaggiore to Manarola was still closed after a long restoration, and so I took the train directly to the next stop, Manarola.
2. Sunset in Manarola
Next, in Manarola, after dinner at sunset, the panoramic landscape from Via Belvedere until a garden and Nessun Dorma restaurant is among the most photographed in the entire region. This overlooking point offers sea views that are spectacular, and the apricot pastel houses change colors during the sunset.
The pretty views compensated somehow for the very rude local I unfortunately came across in Manarola, as I don’t want to ignore it. That being said, no destination is so perfect in reality as might look in photos. Expectations must be realistic.
Another fact about Cinque Terre that I want to insert to remember – During the evening walk or passeggiata (as my friends say), I read a sign about the territory of the National Park, that is both mountainous and coastal. In Manarola, while waiting for the sun to set in the Ligurian Sea hill, I could not stop to admire the natural environment, the inaccessible dramatic cliffs surrounding us with force.
3. Corniglia
Corniglia – the smallest, in the middle, and the hardest to reach. Is the only village of the five not at sea level, therefore after arriving at the train station we had to climb around 380 stairs, on a staircase called Lardarina, however the beautiful views along the way made it manageable. There was also the alternative to wait in the sun in a long line for a small bus.
While in Liguria, and Italy in general, I only wanted to try local produce. Corniglia even has a gelato made from local honey called ‘miele di Corniglia’. So after climbing all the stairs in the sun, the first stop was the recommended Alberto Gelateria for a scoop of their miele di Corniglia flavor, that was delicious, plus a refreshing one of basil gelato drizzled with olive oil. Thank you for the tips, Italy segreta.
While in Corniglia I thought more about the history of this place. Is incredible to realize how remote this part of Italy was and how isolated the villages used to be. There was no road for cars until late 1960s. And is impressive how the locals carved the path to connect the villages starting in the 1920s. The road between Corniglia – Vernazza is the first open section currently on the Blue Trail.
4. Pretty Vernazza
Immediately when arriving in Vernazza I thought that in my view this is the prettiest, even though all five villages are distinct in their own way. In the past Vernazza was also the most important, and is the only one with a natural harbor. The rainstorm and floods affected it the most.
The main road of Vernazza is Via Roma, that connected all of Italy to Rome in ancient times. The old town was the busiest out of the five. And a fantastic viewpoint of the castle and harbor is by following the path behind the port church.
Before heading to the harbor, I finally had trofie al pesto at the recommended Pippo a Vernazza. This restaurant is not in the historic center and discovering a different area of the village, going off the tourist track was the best part. As written in my previous story from Santa Margherita, pesto has originated in Liguria, and you can find here the basil sauce as a topping on everything, from pasta and focaccia to farinata, in gelato and even you can buy pesto chips.
5. Monterosso al mare
Monterosso is the largest and the only with a sandy beach, and was my second favorite after Vernazza, with the friendliest locals. The town is divided in two. Wandered first through the narrow streets of the old town up to Convento dei Cappuccini. In fact, I liked Monterosso historic center shops a lot, and did here all my souvenir shopping.
Next, beach Fegina and the Statue of Neptune or the Giant of Monterosso are must stops, in what is considered the new town. On this promenade you have a good landscape of the other 4 villages and their cluster of houses on hills.
To eat at Enoteca Internazionale for good local food, including focaccia ligure and the specialty that is acciughe di Monterosso (anchovies). As dessert, try torta monterossina, with jam and chocolate, or limoni di Monterosso gelato. While in the hotel Albergo Degli Amici, we were offered fresh lemonade made from the lemons growing in their garden.
Regarding landscape, an interesting aspect I read is that 5terre villages are mistaken with fishing villages, when are in fact vineyards growing and vine producing regions. Plus, in Vernazza and Monterosso, there is a considerable development of olive and lemon groves.
Lastly, I completed the Blue trail with the hike from Monterosso to Vernazza. It was a highlight of the trip. More about lemon groves and a favorite hike next, as I want to dedicate it a special post soon.
As always, thank you / grazie for reading and joining along my journey so far. It gave me great pleasure to document this special trip. Have you visited Cinque Terre or planning to go?
Read also – Journey to Firenze, Toscana
Travel Journal 
So many beautiful photos. I’ve been to Italy many times, but somehow never made it to Cinque Terre – it is one of those iconic places in Italy that had been on my travel list for many many years. I probably recognised the pictures of the gorgeous Italian towns before I actually even knew their names. Thanks for sharing, and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx
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Thank you. Indeed, I had my expectations about Cinque Terre and was not disappointed. Hope you can visit it very soon.
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I hope so, too 🥰🥰🥰
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great photos! I really want to visit the beautiful villages of Cinque Terre
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Thank you, I hope you can make it soon
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